A portrait of Soner Kurtoglu left by mourners outside Ni-Sa Deli in Richmond. (Image: Supplied)

My work is like a saucer of mercury.

Shopkeeper in Qur'an

You had to be up early in Richmond to beat Soner Kurtoglu out on to Bridge Road. Winter dark or rosy dawn, he was there, piling in the trays of loaves, pushing out a cart of oranges and bananas, lighting up the single-front Ni-Sa delicatessen, at the street's dowdy end, between The Suit Concierge and Blessed Vision wedding wear.