(Image: Getty/CraigRJD)

The Melbourne bar, like most Melbourne bars, was accessed by a secret laneway with the door hidden behind a dumpster; and, like most Melbourne bars, it was done in a style combining Tiki retro and a nostalgic revival of Ceausescu’s Romania.

"We don’t take cash," said the owner, after I proffered a note for the Norfolk Island gins we'd drunk out of watering cans.