Down Murray Street Hobart, the cat still plays the fiddle, the cow still jumps over the moon. Every hour they do a little jig, the cat sawing away at a cello, the dish running away with the spoon. Have I been at Tasmania’s legal poppy crop? No, it’s the Cat and Fiddle arcade mural clock, ruling over Hobart since 1962. It was once the portal to a cool Scandi-design arcade. That has now been encased in a boring urban mall, but the cat and the moon are still locked in an eternal embrace. Look at their faces! They are deeply in love. I first saw this thing when I was eight years old. I’m eight years old again every time I see it. Forget MONA: the cat and fiddle rule the city in majesty and peace.

Beneath their stately calm, the whole state is going crazy.