Nov 15, 2013

A trip to the DMZ (and a T-shirt to prove it): Korea divided on a solution

Opinions in South Korea are sharply divided on what to do about its nuclear neighbour. Crikey visited the no-man's-land between still-warring nations to examine whether diplomacy is still an option.

Jason Whittaker — Former <em>Crikey</em> editor and publisher

Jason Whittaker

Former Crikey editor and publisher

“WELCOME TO THE JSA!” It’s the exclamation mark combined with the scrolling LED sign that encapsulate the deadly farce. Some 160,000 tourists annually visit the Joint Security Area, the gateway between North and South Korea that almost never opens, one of the most dangerous places on earth and conversely among the safest.

Similarly, the South Koreans Crikey met on a recent study tour. This is a nation still at war, alert if not alarmed. Everyone wants to talk about the “reunification issue” — and opinions are sharply divided on a solution — but it’s front of mind like traffic for Sydneysiders and coffee for Melburnians: conversation without urgency.

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8 thoughts on “A trip to the DMZ (and a T-shirt to prove it): Korea divided on a solution

  1. paddy

    Fascinating, and a little scary Jason.
    What’re the chances of them letting you into the north next time?

  2. Chris Hartwell

    @paddy – minimal. During my visit to S. Korea and also my visit to the DMZ, there was discussion of visiting N. Korea. Until only a few months prior (this was late 2012) there had been limited travel between the two – S. Koreans and some foreigners were permitted to travel (under supervision of course) within N. Korea and N. Koreans were permitted to enter S. Korea for manufacturing work.

    The way we were told, it was ended when a young woman visiting N. Korea got disoriented while walking on her own and approached the N. Korean border too closely. She was challenged, she panicked and ran, and was subsequently shot and killed. It was explained to us that to prevent a repeat of such a tragedy, the S. Korean government was no longer going to be accommodating people wishing to travel into N. Korea.

    Which is a shame – what (limited) views you can get from the edge of the DMZ make it seem a very picturesque country.

  3. Marty Kindleysides

    I thought it was very easy to enter Pyongyang, in fact the North is trying to encourage tourism. There are a few tourist companies that operate this service. You pay the cash and they will sort the rest out for you. A friend of mine went this year. Had a very surreal experience! I was up on the boarder myself a few years ago, and the stark contrast between the North and South is quite surprising. I found the North to be baron, while the south was green and lush and obviously more advanced. Apparently the Kempinski hotel will be opening up in Pyongyang next year! So it could be an enjoyable experience be led around by your minders and then coming back to a bit of western civilization, while the majority of North Koreans are eating twigs and mud just to fill their stomachs. Maybe they will open up a theme park in the gulags soon too?

  4. Snoopy J Pants

    I have visited from the North in September 2013. It’s no big deal for a “civilian” you just pay your tour fees (and if you want to go I can highly recommend Koryo Tours – an English owned, Beijing based outfit who has been offering tours for years and produced three excellent documentaries about the country – “A State of Mind”, “The Game of their Lives” and “Crossing the Lines’) though they do restrict access to journalists.

    The experience is a little surreal (especially seeing the green highway sign which says in Korean “Seoul – 60km”) but not at all threatening. You go through the room where the “armistice” was signed, there is the axe that was used to kill some US soldiers after an incursion in to the DPRK involving the cutting of tree. Hannah, our English guide said they have toned the anti-american rhetoric down in recent times as they actually used to point the axe out on the tour. Now they just tell the story of how the Americans were so embarrassed by their surrender they left the UN flag behind.

    Once you get to the line, you can take photos with the officers, wave at the border guards (who are just trotted out when visitors arrive). When I visited, a group of veterans were approaching from the south of line so we couldn’t enter the negotiation rooms but we did wave and holler at them from our side. They were stoney faced and no photos were taken.

    An American Judge, himself a Korean war veteran, on his third or fourth visit to the DPRK said that security is treated much more seriously on the ROK side where visitors are told not to take photos or attempt to engage with northerners.

    The whole thing struck me as theatre and managed as an important tourist attraction for the north (there were several coaches of Chinese tourists who arrived after we did). Our trip didn’t visit Kijong-dong but stayed overnight in Kaesong (the ancient capital) – this was a living town and certainly poverty was rising to the surface in comparison to what we saw in Pyongyang.

  5. Chris Hartwell

    I stand corrected then – like I said, I was there in late 2012. It’s good to see that N. Korea has opened up a bit since then.

  6. Luke Morton

    I think there’s a difference between crossing into the North from the South – which isn’t doable for tourists – and visiting North Korea directly on a tour.

  7. Marty Kindleysides

    During the tour when you walk into the blue huts, you get to walk across the border into the Korean side for a few moments. So I guess thousands of tourist cross through the boarder each year.

  8. Suzanne Blake

    The wall will eventually collapse as all socialist walls have before it. Same with Cuba when Castro dies.

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