Wheeling through the backwoods of northern Florida, the panhandle, and the northern part of the state's, erm, shaft, flicking through the radio stations on the dial while driving -- well, as Radio Girl was driving, I was inhaling snacks and counting roadkill -- one soon falls into a familiar rhythm: Jesus station, country, classic rock, Jesus station. Florida is a northern state in the South, and the bottom of the deep South in the North.

On the western panhandle coast, another "redneck riviera" sprawls for tens of miles, to Panama City. Then farms and fishing towns begin, as poor and down-at-heel as the backwoods of Alabama, rotting shacks, and dead centres, then a town revived by hippies and alts, all B'n'Bs and antiques, and then more orchards, and long shut-down oyster houses.