The world is a cold, vile, miserable place. We are constantly beset by wars and rumours of wars, the wafting winds of pestilence and the spindly, ashen spectre of famine. A shrieking and squawking media provides the soundtrack to an eternity of woe. Many of us take succour whatever we can — drink, drugs, religion, s-x. I shield myself from the slow collapse of all things with a steaming bowl of pho.
Pho, for those of you unfamiliar with this prince of soups, is a form of Vietnamese beef broth. Simmered over many hours, the soup commonly contains spices such as fennel, cardamon, coriander and cinnamon. Served with rice noodles, chili and bean sprouts, one can take their pick of many meaty additions, including beef, chicken, shrimp and pork, cut and sliced in many different ways.
The description of what comprises the soup cannot, and does not, do justice to the warming, soothing majesty of this dish. From one’s first sip, a good pho will transport you to a place of comfort and slightly fuzzy calm. It may just dislodge memories of childhood happinesses. Adding chili gives it a delightfully zingy kick, a gastronomical cue to tilt one’s hat at a cocky angle and compliment a Pretty Young Thing in a rakish manner. It will fill you up, and the wellbeing it inspires will carry you through an entire afternoon of workaday drudgery.
One can get pho, and good pho, in those suburbs heavily populated by Vietnamese migrants across the nation. As an inhabitant of Melbourne’s western suburbs, I swear by Pho Hung Vuong Saigon (128 Hopkins Street, Footscray), a cash-only, canteen-style restaurant that often has a line snaking out the door. The service is perfunctory, the place loud and cramped, but the pho is magnificent. Damn cheap, too — $9.50 will get you a large bowl and I’m telling you, a stout fellow like myself has trouble finishing one.
So, when the horrors of this cold, dark world get your down and you feel like you can’t go on — or at least, not without a bite to eat — consider pho as a lunchtime proposition. I guarantee it is not one you will regret.
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Peter Fray
Editor-in-chief of Crikey
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Couldn’t agree more. I held a straw poll amongst friends and family to determine the best ‘feelgood soup’ amongst chicken soup, laksa and pho. Pho won, hands down.
The best one I’ve found in the northern ‘burbs is at Pho Dzung on High St in Preston. It’s open 10am til 10pm and there’s always at least 20 people in there slurping their noodles.
you haven’t eaten Pho until you have tried the one at Nightcliff Market – almost as good for the soul as chicken soup with matzos balls ……..
Agreed 100%. Nothing hits the spot like a proper bowl of pho (for me that means ‘special beef’, in the biggest bowl they offer).
I won’t make any claims about it being the best in Sydney, but I get mine at Pho An in Bankstown. I know there are haters, and I accept that there may be better for cheaper elsewhere (though I’m not yet convinced), but it’s plenty good and certainly the nearest decent bowl to Sutherland.
I also find perfectly acceptable – and I mean that in the best possible way – Pho Pasteur (Parramatta, Bankstown or George St) and Bau Truong (Cabramatta or Canley Heights).
+1 for Pho Pasteur – but I’ve only tried the George Street restaurant
We have about 4 Pho sellers here in Newtown / Enmore / Marrickville – that are worthy of mention. I rate them all 6-7/10. OK without being great.
But Pho Pasteur at Parramatta is (or was the last time I went there) maybe an 8.
A new one on Concord Rd North Strathfield makes a rather fine Pho Dac Biet (the special beef noodle, brisket, tripe and sausage kind).
The best Vietnamese restaurant within coo-ee is Bay Tinh – Marrickville. They do miraculous rice cakes – but sadly, no Pho 🙁